Moderator: Gaijin Punch
SuperDeadite wrote:Yeah awhile ago I thought my HDD died, but then I realized the battery was dead. With the battery removed I reformatted the drive, and it worked perfectly I could install and run games OS straight off of it. But as soon as I turned the computer off for 5 mins, the HDD was no longer readable. I repeated the process, same thing every time.
For OS I have TownsOS 2.51 L40 on original CD. It autoboots itself and runs in ram or can be installed just fine. Never had an issue with TownsOS. Even my old burned CDR of 1.0 works just fine if Fast Mode is disabled...
Now Windows 3.11 requires a boot disk to install, and before that you have to install DOS of the set of 6 floppies (I have the 3.11 stuff, but I don't have DOS package). And if you really want to put in Win95, that is just an upgrade CD that runs through 3.11.
How is the condition of your battery? When I had the bad battery installed, I often had weird behavior. Sometimes the drive just wouldn't read shit. Then I had awful screeching sound effects in Chase HQ, no matter how often I reset, these issues never went away. But then I pulled the battery out and let it sit a couple days, all issues fixed. I'm guessing my failed battery corrupted the SRAM and caused everything. As I've been running on no battery for 6 months, and everything is perfect.
SuperDeadite wrote:For OS I have TownsOS 2.51 L40 on original CD. It autoboots itself and runs in ram or can be installed just fine. Never had an issue with TownsOS. Even my old burned CDR of 1.0 works just fine if Fast Mode is disabled...
SuperDeadite wrote:LOL, it's been so long since I've used it I got the numbers wrong. I have 2.1 L30.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r260/SuperDeadite/town_zps831f7715.jpg
SuperDeadite wrote:First thing to do is pull out your HDD/CF. You'll notice that it attaches by a weird little SCSI adapter cable thing that separates the power and data connections. While on the mobo side it's just one giant plug. Pull that cable from the mobo itself. If you pull the drive, but leave that cable attached to the mobo with nothing on the other end, it will still give you issues (took me hours to figure this out).
With that cable removed, your machine should boot from CD just fine again. If so, then yes your issue is the battery. Remove it, then be sure to let the system totally drain of power for a few days. (Or you could short it I suppose, similar thing to CPS2 phoenixing). Then you should be able to reattach an HDD and still boot from CD. It won't be able to read the HDD until you've reformatted, but everything should work again. Though once you turn it off, you may have to do the full HDD cable removal thing again until you've replaced the battery.
Stefan_L wrote:SuperDeadite could you please make a recording of the stage 2 (Windy Avenue) music from Granada using a real X68K and real CM-32L?![]()
I have been told in a discussion that Granada has "problem" using Hoot to play the music but there is always a possibility that Hoot emulation is correct and the bug is the actual game,you can solve this by doing a recording if you want
SuperDeadite wrote:Finally got the stupidly hard to find Towns version of Illusion City. And it uses LA (MT-32 family) MIDI like all other versions of the game. Though to be honest, the FM in this version sounds really badass, and I prefer it over the same old MIDI tunes used in all versions of the game. In fact I much prefer the FM here over the FM in the X68K version, which seems odd as the Towns uses the same chip as the Megadrive. Still though sounds really fucking good in this version.
SuperDeadite wrote:Yes, this version actually runs very fast compared to both the MSX and X68k versions. The extra speed makes the game a lot more fun to play imo. Only thing is that it's a floppy disk game, but I have been unable to dump it. I've dumped other Towns floppies, but the usual methods don't seem to work here.
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhHW5oHcHRg
SuperDeadite wrote:The FM is a lot clearer. The MIDI is exactly the same of course.
As for a setup, Roland/Eidrol makes some really nice MIDI Patchers. They have like 8 inputs, 8 outputs, and USB. You can send any input to any output with a the push of a button. They are around 20,000 and up, but the best there is really.
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